Guide

How to Read a Cross Stitch Chart and Its Symbols

The short answer

On a cross stitch chart, each square is one cross stitch on your fabric, and each symbol or colour stands for one thread listed in the key. Bold grid lines every ten squares help you count, arrows on the edges mark the centre, and empty squares mean no stitch. Start from the centre and count outwards.

The first time you open a cross stitch chart it can look like a page of tiny hieroglyphs. In fact a chart is one of the simplest kinds of instructions there is: a map where every square tells you exactly what to do at one spot on the fabric. Once you know the five parts of a chart, you can read almost any pattern.

Part 1: The grid

Each square on the chart equals one full cross stitch on your fabric. On Aida, that’s one of the little square blocks you see between the holes; on evenweave or linen it’s usually a two-by-two group of threads. The chart doesn’t care about fabric count: a 40-square-wide chart is 40 stitches wide whether you stitch it on 11-count or 18-count. Only the finished size changes (how size works).

Empty squares mean no stitch: the fabric shows through. They are as important as the stitched ones because they define shapes and spacing.

Part 2: Symbols and the key

Every thread colour gets its own symbol. The key (sometimes called the legend) lists each symbol with its colour, a name, and usually how many stitches use it. In our PDFs the key also shows the colour swatch with the symbol printed on it, plus the total stitch count.

Charts come in three styles:

  • Colour + symbols: coloured squares with a symbol on top. Easiest for most people.
  • Black-and-white symbols: cheaper to print and still precise; good for photocopying.
  • Colour blocks only: quick to read for simple designs but risky when two colours look alike.

Our symbols differ in shape, not just colour (circles, triangles, crosses, bars, half-filled squares), so they stay distinct when printed in black and white.

Part 3: The bold lines

Every tenth grid line is heavier, and the lines are numbered along the edges (10, 20, 30…). These are your counting landmarks. Instead of counting 27 squares from the edge, count “two bold lines and seven more.” On fabric, some stitchers baste matching guide lines every ten stitches with a contrasting thread to make this even easier.

Part 4: The centre

Small arrows (or triangles) on all four sides point at the middle column and middle row. Where they meet is the centre of the design. Find the centre of your fabric by folding it in half lengthwise and then widthwise; the crease intersection is the middle. Begin stitching there and your design will be centred automatically, without measuring.

Part 5: Page layout (for larger charts)

Charts too large for one page are split into several. A good multi-page chart includes:

  • an overview page showing the whole design and which page covers each area
  • page numbers and the column and row range on each page (“columns 51–100, rows 1–70”)
  • overlap: a couple of rows or columns repeated from the neighbouring page, usually shaded, so you can line pages up

Our PDFs include all three. See how to print a multi-page chart.

How to follow a chart in practice

  1. Gather your threads and label them with their symbols (a simple card with holes works well).
  2. Start at the centre with the colour that covers the most area nearby.
  3. Stitch in rows or blocks of the same colour. Many stitchers work a row of half stitches left to right and complete the crosses on the way back.
  4. Count from the last stitch you made, not from the edge. Counting from something nearby is much more accurate.
  5. Mark what you’ve done. Highlight finished squares on a printed copy, or tap them in a digital tracker.

Reading tricky areas

  • Single isolated symbols (confetti): stitch them while you’re working the surrounding colour if the thread can travel a short distance on the back; otherwise start a new thread. See reducing confetti.
  • Two similar symbols side by side: use a ruler or a magnetic board strip under the row you’re reading.
  • Large areas of one colour: count the outline first, then fill.

Common mistakes

  • Counting from the fabric edge instead of from existing stitches.
  • Turning the fabric but not the chart (or vice versa). Keep both the same way up.
  • Confusing symbols in poor light. Print the chart larger, or use the Symbols view on screen and zoom in.
  • Ignoring the stitch direction. All top legs of your crosses should slant the same way for an even look.

Try it

The Little Heart pattern is a perfect first chart: three colours, a clear outline and a centre that is easy to find. Open it, look at the key, and you’ll recognise each of the five parts described above.

Practice: reading a small chart step by step

Take the 13 × 12 Little Heart pattern as practice.

  1. Key. It has three colours: a dark red outline, a red fill and a light pink highlight. Each has its own symbol, and the key lists how many stitches each uses.
  2. Size. 13 × 12 squares: on 14-count that is under an inch square. Cut a piece of fabric at least 4 × 4 inches.
  3. Centre. The arrows point to column 7 and row 7. Fold the fabric to find its centre and bring your needle up there.
  4. First colour. Most of the area near the centre is red fill, so start with that. Work horizontal rows: half stitches across, then complete the crosses on the way back.
  5. Outline. Switch to the dark red and follow the outline square by square. Count from the red stitches you have already made.
  6. Highlight. Finish with the three pink stitches near the top left of the heart.

Symbol conventions you will meet elsewhere

Charts from other sources often add:

  • Backstitch lines drawn across or between squares (straight stitches, usually for outlines or text).
  • Fractional stitches: a square split diagonally into two colours (three-quarter or half stitches).
  • French knots: small dots or circles on grid intersections.
  • Bead or special thread symbols listed in a separate key section.

The charts on this site use only full cross stitches, which keeps them easy to read; when you move on to designs with these extras, read their key’s stitch section before you start.

Keeping your place on large charts

MethodWorks best for
Highlighter on a printed copySmall and medium charts
Magnetic board with a ruler stripReading row by row
Gridding the fabric every ten stitches with a contrasting threadLarge, confetti-heavy designs
Digital trackerAny size; easy undo and colour filtering

Questions stitchers ask

Where do I start stitching on a chart?

Most stitchers start at the centre, marked by arrows on the chart edges, so the design ends up centred on the fabric. Fold the fabric in half both ways to find its middle.

What do empty squares mean?

Empty squares are no-stitch areas: leave the fabric bare there. They are part of the design and should be counted like any other square.

Why are some squares grey on my printed pages?

They repeat a couple of rows or columns from the neighbouring page to help you line pages up. Stitch them only once.

How do I avoid counting mistakes?

Count from the last stitch you made rather than from the fabric edge, use the bold lines every ten squares, and check each new area against a stitched neighbour before filling it.

Try it now

Everything in this guide works in the free cross stitch pattern maker, right in your browser, with no account.

Practise on the Little Heart chart →

A pattern to practise with